June 2024

New roots in Berlin.

If you’d told me a year ago that I’d be writing this from a sunlit park bench in Berlin — watching my kids argue over the last spoonful of Spaghettieis (look it up, it’s exactly what it sounds like) — I would’ve laughed and told you to lay off the Twisted Tea. But here we are. A family of five, freshly relocated from New York City — with a ten-month layover in Las Vegas — now calling Berlin’s Friedrichshain neighborhood home.

Moving internationally with three kids is equal parts comedy and endurance test. Picture herding caffeinated cats through customs — now add luggage, paperwork, and melting snacks. Our journey spanned three airports, a dozen in-flight tantrums, and enough granola bars to fuel a small army. Jet lag hit hard. I’m not entirely convinced our internal clocks have landed yet.

We arrived just as summer began to stretch across the city — long days, light until almost 10 p.m., and that lazy hum that makes every plan feel optional. With school not starting until late August (the German calendar is truly something), we had weeks to fill.

Most days, we biked through tree-lined streets, hit every playground within a few kilometers, and mastered the art of hauling scooters, snacks, and small humans on and off the U-Bahn. The parks here are something else — shady, sprawling, and dotted with water features that seem designed by someone who actually remembers childhood.

The endless daylight is charming until bedtime rolls around and you’re trying to convince a wide-awake seven-year-old that yes, it’s night, even if the sky disagrees. And since Berliners collectively reject the idea of air conditioning, we’ve adapted: fans, cold beers, and the acceptance that sweat is simply part of the aesthetic.

Our local farmers market at Boxhagener Platz has become part of our weekly rhythm — a mix of language practice, snack procurement, and people-watching. We’ve learned the German words for strawberries, plums, and “no, thank you” while accidentally over-ordering pickles. The Sunday flea market there has supplied us with everything from vintage books to an alarming number of secondhand stuffed animals.

German supermarkets are another kind of education. The produce is beautiful, the bakery section is sacred, and the yogurt selection borders on absurd. The only letdown is the cereal aisle — a grim mix of muesli and something called Schoko Balls. The kids are unimpressed.

We do miss certain things — bagels, New York pizza, our people. But we’ve traded them for late evening walks, ridiculously good ice cream, and the thrill of figuring out a new life together. The kids have fallen in love with their independence, zooming through the streets on bikes and navigating the U-Bahn with growing confidence.

School starts soon, and while we’re all ready for structure again, I’ll miss these long, unplanned summer days — the kind where everything feels new but already a little familiar. Berlin has surprised us. A city known for techno and gray winters has turned out to be the perfect backdrop for a family adventure.

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Großer Wannsee